Jeff Campbell

The debate over the pros and cons of different telemark bindings will rage for a long time. The Black Diamond 01 is a great binding because of features such as the tour mode, the Rid-Stiff springs, and weight. While the 01 performs much better than other bindings I've been on, the largest con has to be the minimalist 4-screws holding the binding to the ski. Black Diamond recommends using a standard epoxy for mounting. I probably skied over 10k+ vert on leg as seen below due to these ripping out at inconvenient locations (i.e. near the North shoulder of the Pfeiferhorn), not to mention loosing one ski completely.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

However, after ripping 2 pairs of 01's out of 2 separate pairs of skis, I believe I have found the Holy Grail to keeping these bindings mounted to the ski.

 

Past failed attempts to mounting them have included the following combinations:

 

Metal Top-Sheet + Gorilla Glue + Rid Stiff Springs = Failure

 

Metal Top-Sheet + Epoxy + Heli-coil + Rid Stiff Springs = Failure

 

Non-Metal Top-sheet + Gorilla Glue + Mid Stiff Springs = Failure

 

Non-Metal Top-sheet + Epoxy + Heli-coil + Stiff Mid Springs = Failure

 

SO......here's what has worked for me. I recently just re-mounted 2 pairs of skis (metal topsheet & non-metal topsheet). The photos are from both mountings. *I take no responsibility if this doesn't work for you.....

 

Equipment you'll need:

 

• Hand Drill (a Drill Press would be best)
• Calipers
• Measuring Tape
• Mounting Template
• 1 - 10ml Syringe (w/out needle)
• JB Weld
• Drill bits in sizes: 7/64", 9/64', & 5/32"
• Hammer
• 1 - Finishing Nail

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I won't go into detail into how to determine where you should mount your bindings. I prefer +2 to 4 cm, but others may disagree.

Once, you have determined where your mount will be, you must Center the Mounting Template. This is so important, I use calipers to ensure I am dead center. Call me anal, I try to get within +./- 0.50mm. Be sure to measure both sides, and also to measure the front AND rear holes to make sure the binding is STRAIGHT.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the template is oriented correctly, use the hammer and finishing nail to mark the hole locations. This preserves the template relative to drilling through it, which will in turn increase your accuracy for the 2nd ski.

You are ready to drill your holes. The screws Black Diamond currently uses have an INSIDE Diameter of ~3.75mm. (this is not the outter thread diameter, but measured on the thinnest shaft of the screw between threads). To increase the screw's holding power, we want to UNDERDRILL the holes. By doing this, the screws will compress the hole walls creating a negative residual stress, and increasing the pullout strength. This technique is often used in the aerospace industry.  SO you need to follow the following sequence carefully. THIS IS the most important part!!!

• Drill the pilot holes with 7/64" drill bit
• Follow with the 9/64" (~3.5mm) drill bit
• Use the 5/32" (~3.9mm) drill bit to "break" through the top sheet and any metal sheets in the core. This drill should be as shallow as possible. This will allow you to start threading the screw in the hole, otherwise you risk striping the top out if you can't get the threads to bite.

Next, you need to Pre-Tap the holes. Some people discourage this, but we won't be using a tap but the screws you will be mounting your bindings with. This will compress the ski core, rather than remove more material. This also decreases the chance of stripping the hole if the threads can't bite while blindly fumbling with the screws while mounting the binding. Thread the screw in  to the depth as shown below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now we are ready to prepare the JB Weld. I chose JB Weld because it has a bonding strength < 2x Standard Epoxy (which has failed on me). Mix per instructions.

Load the JB weld into the 10ml Syringe (you don't need 10ml mixed) and apply to the holes. This is a nice, clean way to apply the JB Weld. Don't try and apply the JB Weld to the threads of the screws. If you get JB Weld between the head of the screw and the binding, they will bond and you may never get your binding off again unless you drill out that screw.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the JB weld is applied to the holes, mount the binding as you would normally. Standard epoxy has always worked for mounting the heel riser blocks.

Good luck!